Musée Jacquemart – André.
Or Suck it, Downton Abbey.
Act I: The Dining Hall at Jacquemart-André Museum
Unlike other museums of this caliber that I could mention, and which rhyme with mouvre, the line here is never long, but even it is the line is on the driveway that Gaston traveled up in his carriage when they filmed parts of the movie Gigi here. So it’s cool to stand in the driveway of Gaston’s house anyway. Edouard André and Nelie Jacquemart gifted this Parisian mansion to the people as a museum and the café here used to be their private dining hall. So start the museum by accepting their invitation to dine with them because after all you’re a Parisian aristocrat too and of course you dine in places like this.
Although I can never decide whether to sit inside with tapestries and a painted ceiling or outside on Nelie and Edouard’s back porch. So when it’s available I sit in the back corner table of the dining room by a window and get the best of both worlds.
Take your time here and enjoy your meal. There are a few of these houses that were once real and working mansions gifted to the state as museums, but in this one you aren’t roped through but dine here and live here and it’s a lovely experience to eat where the family ate. An experience hard to find in all of Europe.
Act II: Jacquemart-André museum
So our friends Nelie and Edouard used their high rank and money and power to travel the world and collect art work from High Renaissance like Sandro mother f%&kin Botticelli all the way to the Dutch masters like Rem mother f#@kin brandt. On two separate occasions have I had a Sandro mother f&%kin Botticelli to myself. It’s as unreal of an experience as you imagine it to be. At other times, there are only a few other people in the room but it’s a high level of traveler here so it’s a pleasure to share the experience.
The rooms are pretty much as Nelie and Edouard left them, too, with all of their Parisian aristocratic taste. It’s all art. All of it. Even the staircase is a work of art that you get to climb and experience. One of the better run museums in all of Europe, if you’re asking.
Act III: Park Monceau
After art of the highest level, it’s only appropriate that you wave goodbye to Nelie and Edouard with an I will never return to Paris without coming back for a stop at your home that you gifted to the people, and then head west on Boulevard Haussmann for a few steps and then take a right on Rue de Courcelles and then a veer to the right on Rue Rembrandt. Like I said, it’s only proper to peruse down a Parisian street named Rembrandt after perusing through Rembrandt works of art, but also this is one of the most gorgeous streets in Paris. Rue Rembrandt and its row of mansions runs you straight into Parisians lounging on lawns and running with their strollers in Park Monceau.
It’s hard to imagine a trip to Paris without a trip to this working Parisian park. Live with them here in their natural habitat.
There’s a place for ice cream near the little carousel and it’s also hard to imagine a better time than ice cream at a real Parisian park.
Also that weeping willow (I think it is) over the pond is the backdrop for Gigi singing I don’t understand the Parisians. However, this park couldn’t make understanding the Parisians any easier. All Gigi had to do was to look around. This is Paris and this is what Parisians love and how they live Paris. Couldn’t be more straightforward, if she’s still asking.
Don’t for any reason set a time for how long you should spend here. The park will find it rude. But trust me it will let you know when the conversation is over and when it’s ready for you to take your leave. Don’t force it. Forcing it is counter to why you came to Paris and a park it prizes like Monceau.